Etruscan jewellery - Early Etruscan (7-5 centuries BC) and Late Etruscan (400-250 BC).
The origin of the Etruscans has been much debated but, according to present thinking, they were largely native Italians domiciled in central Italy, modern Tuscany, who had developed their natural resources so skilfully that they become extremely wealthy. In return for their mineral and agricultural products, they were able to import luxuries from Greece and Phoenicia.
Early Etruscan jewellery is characterized by its abundance, its technical perfection, and its variety.
- Granulation was the decorative process par excellence, and its possibilities were developed to a far higher degree than in Greece.
- The Etruscans were fond of fibulae (2 pic.), some of which were very large and decorated with elaborate granulation and processions of animals done in relief. The Roman conquests spread the use of the fibula, which became the basis for more complicated brooches.
- Filigree was at first used sparingly, but on occasion was applied in openwork patterns without background and extremely difficult process.
- One more piece of fine jewellery characterizing Etruscan jewelry is bulla (4 pic.) - a children amulet worn like a locket - status as freeborn children. A stopper at the top, held in place by a chain or cord, secured the contents. Decorated with small ornaments made of wire or granulated gold bulla acquired another purpose as a perfume or small charms holder.
The Etruscans loved color, and their necklaces od delicately granulated gold beads frequently included glass and faience beads of Phoenician origin, to give a rich polychrome effect.
Late Etruscan jewellery is very different in form and execution, consisting as it does on large convex surfaces of sheet gold. The decoration is meagre: filigree and granulation were occasionally used, but in general, the goldsmith restricted himself to embossed patterns of the simplest kind.
Source:
British Museum book 7000 years of jewelry